Marcum's Redbud Compost

Redbud Compost is Marcum’s organic soil amendment that has been properly processed and finished at our Goldsby location. Our compost has a fresh earthy smell and is ready to be applied to your plants, shrubs, and trees. In other words, our product is a “finished” product, meaning there is no odor. Many competitor’s compost brands have an odor because the nitrogen component is still breaking down. Redbud’s correctly blended proportions of carbons, nitrogen, water, and oxygen produce a decomposed matter ready to be used to best benefit all your planting needs. Most importantly, our compost temps are kept below 170 degrees to ensure beneficial microbes are not depleted due to high temperatures.

For clay soils, Redbud Compost helps to loosen the particles, hold oxygen, and release nutrients. In our sandy soils, it helps to hold moisture and make the nutrients more readily available.

Mixed correctly, Redbud Compost can be used for the following:

  • Potting mix
  • Garden supplement
  • Raised bed mix
  • Top dressing
  • Soil mix

Adding Redbud Compost ensures a healthier soil for your plants, trees, shrubs and flowers. We believe no other compost compares to our Redbud Compost.

Testimony: Tommy Sharp says, “I tried several things to improve the soil of my vegetable garden without any luck, but after I used Redbud Compost, my garden was the best in 30 years.”

For more info on Redbud Compost, contact us directly.

Goldsby Location: 405-288-2368

OKC Location: 405-691-9100

Deciduous B & B (Ball & Burlap) Planting Timelines

According to the tree experts at Marcum’s Nursery, the best time to plant your deciduous (B & B) ball and burlap trees in Oklahoma is when they go dormant. Trees are dormant when their leaves turn their beautiful fall color and begin to drop.

It’s always important to know the specifics of the tree variety you have selected as different varieties may go dormant at different times. Marcum’s Nursery believes the best time to plant trees is mid to late November (or when our fall colors appear on leaves) through June.

By July, the roots of most tree varieties have begun to grow back into the soil. Digging a tree during this growth period could cause transplant shock.

Let our tree experts help you select your B & B tree for winter planting. Now is the perfect time!

Azaleas For Spring

Encore and Bloom-A-Thon are two of our most popular azaleas at Marcum’s Nursery. Why settle for just a week or two of flowers when you can enjoy these large reblooming flowers that appear in April, rebloom in early July, and continue through our first hard frost. Even our high summer Oklahoma temperatures don’t stop these beauties. Their evergreen foliage is disease resistant and maintains excellent color year-round.

These azaleas (a plant that is synonymous with rhododendrons)are easy to love. Like clockwork, their amazing flowers put on an incredible display of color beginning in early spring helping to herald the coming growing season. Whether in a formal or a woodland garden setting, azaleas make a great addition to any garden. When these plants are in full bloom, it’s almost impossible to see the foliage underneath.

For centuries, azaleas were grown only in Japanese gardens. But then native species were discovered in North America, and eventually types from both countries found their way to Europe.

Azaleas love acid soil, good amendments, and fertilizers. When planting your azaleas, be sure to mix the native soil of your garden with an azalea (acid) planting amendment or with 40% peat moss and 40% pine bark. They like good drainage but do not like their roots to stay too wet or dry out. Plant them so that the root crown is about 1 inch above the soil line. Once they are planted, mulch with Marcum’s Grade A Cedar Mulch or pecan mulch.

Azaleas don’t require much pruning if the proper varieties are selected for the desired mature size. If occasional pruning is needed to control size or wayward branches, prune from one month after the blooming season has ended. Contact Marcum’s Nursery for additional details on pruning azaleas. Whether pruned formally into shapes or left natural to blend in with the local surroundings, azaleas make a wonderful addition to any garden with their extraordinary offering of beautiful spring flowers that rebloom through fall.

Check out our variety of colors at both our store locations!

Tomato Tips For Our Gardeners

Few of us can conceive of cooking (or eating) without the presence of tomatoes in our diet. In the US, the tomato is the summer vegetable (or fruit?) most often grown at home–and there are plenty of cultivars to grow.

Marcum’s carries many varieties including, but not limited to, the following: Arkansas Traveler Heirloom, Beefmaster, Beefsteak, Better Boy, Better Bush, Big Boy, Celebrity, Early Girl, Golden Girl, Jet Setter, Jet Star, Juliet Cherry, Large Red Cherry, Mortgage Lifter, Lemon Boy, Pink Brandywine, Park’s Whopper Improved, Roma, Rutgers, Speckled Roman, Super Sweet 100 Cherry, Super Fantastic, Super Sue, and Sun Sugar. The U.S. Department of Agriculture claims there are 25,000 tomato varieties.

Tomatoes are the favorite vegetable for home growing. But this delicious food didn’t always have it so easy. Up until the 1800’s, most people viewed the tomato with caution–and many with outright fear. Originally grown by the Aztecs and Incas as early as 700 A.D., it is thought that the first seeds made their way across the Atlantic sometime in the 1500’s.

Early Europeans categorized it with a group of well-known poisonous plants of the era: henbane, mandrake and nightshade. Because of its association with nightshade (whose hallucinogenic effects include visions and the sense of flying), it quickly became associated with witchcraft.

Over the past years, commercial growers have produced tomato varieties that valued shelf-life and unblemished prettiness over taste–and the result has been an almost tasteless tomato at your local stores. You can put taste back on top of the list by growing your own.

Tips on Choosing Your Tomato Plants: Height and bushiness of the plant are important, particularly for gardeners growing tomatoes in small spaces. Check to see whether the variety you select is “determinate” (bush type–produces all at once–best for small spaces) or “indeterminate” (vine type–produces throughout the season and grows in all directions).

Consider taste, size, shape, color, mildness, (acidity or non-acidity), disease resistance, and cracking resistance.

Your intended use for the tomato may dictate your selection. For instance, if you want to use your tomato crop for preserving or for making tomato paste, you’ll want to select a variety that has a strong tomato flavor and lasts a long time in the refrigerator.

Depending on when you plant, you may be concerned about the “days to maturity” (the time it takes a transplant to bear ripe fruit.)

Finally, consider selecting a few unique tomato plants from Marcum’s Nursery that you haven’t tried before or a novelty variety no one else in the neighborhood grows. Planting tips: Choose a spot in full sun, and prepare the soil by digging it deeply with a spade and mixing in a good planting mix.

Add a good vegetable fertilizer.

Plant transplants deeply. If they’re leggy, snip off the lower leaves, make a little trench with the trowel, lay the plant in sideways, and bend the stem up gently. Roots will form all along the buried stem.

Choose a staking system (such as a tomato cage or trellis).

Water deeply and continue to irrigate so the soil stays evenly moist.

Grow your own tomatoes. Your taste buds will thank you. Here’s wishing you a bumper crop this summer!

How Do I Care For My Roses?

Scentimental Rose (Photo by Jennifer Marcum)

We all have been thrilled by the Queen of the Garden this spring. Don’t you agree? The first rose bloom has been absolutely fabulous. If you haven’t been by the garden center and wandered through the rows of hybrid teas, floribundas, English, Romantica, tree roses and climbers, we invite you to do so. The color palette and fragrant bouquet are out of this world.

Roses perform best in bright sunny areas. Choose a location where access for pruning and maintenance is easy and where the plant is not likely to be exposed to too much overhead watering, (such as lawn sprinklers) which could result in continual mildew problems. Although bare root planting was in early spring, you can plant roses now before it gets into our summer hot weather.

Almost everyone loves roses, but many people don’t grow them because they think roses are difficult to care for. Not so. They do require some care, but new resistant varieties are much easier to care for than the roses our grandparents grew. Here are the basic care tips for growing this Queen of the Garden.

Planting: Once you have chosen a location, plant your rose carefully to ensure a healthy start. Use a quality soil mix to blend 50/50 with your existing soil. Dig a hole 1.5 times as big as the container size you are planting. Use your soil blend in the bottom and handle the root ball carefully, using two hands to place it inside the hole. Next, using your soil blend, fill in around the sides of the root ball. Water the root ball thoroughly and let the soil settle naturally. Remember to water daily as the rose gets established. You can begin fertilizing in 2-3 weeks.

Once the first blooms fade, what is your next step? Deadhead, water, fertilize and mulch. Pretty darn simple.

Deadhead: This encourages your rose to grow more secondary canes that will give you the next bloom cycle. So, unless you like to grow rose hips, then cut off these blooms. Make your cuts just above (1/4″) an outward facing 5-leaflet. How far down the cane? That is your choice. During the bud/bloom time, some cut long stems to take into the house. Others cut back to shape and maintain a certain size to the rose bush throughout the season. Cut off cross canes and any canes coming up from below the graft union (those are suckers from the root stock).

Water: Roses love water. Keep the soil moist but not with standing water.

Fertilize: Roses love to eat – wouldn’t you, after all the work of these blooms! Just a quick product note: If you use a systemic food with pesticides, it will kill not just rose pests but beneficial insects as well.

Mulch: Cover the soil with 2-3 inches of Marcum’s mulch (cocoa mulch, small or shredded bark) surrounding the rose bush. Keep mulch away from the main stem/graft area. Mulch will keep weeds down, moisture in the soil, and increase the health of your soil.

We look forward to strolling with you through the rose section of our garden center and helping you with the best selection of roses for your garden.

Mosquito Control

Click here for ferti-lome’s info on how to control mosquitoes before they control you!

Annual Bluegrass (Poa annua)

his Is NOT A Festival!

Annual Bluegrass (Poa annua) is commonly referred to at Marcum’s Nursery as “po anna”. Due to its scientific name, Poa annua, tells us this grassy weed is not only an annual, but also known as an annual nuisance to Oklahomans! This weed is every landscaper’s and gardener’s nightmare if not addressed quickly. Annual Bluegrass (Poa annua), is one of the most common and major weed problems for not only residential and commercial lawns in Oklahoma, but also in highly maintained turfgrasses used for sporting events world-wide.

Removing it is very challenging!

“It’s a rapid and prolific seeder. Each small plant can produce about 100 seeds in as few as eight weeks. Viable seed can be produced just a few days after pollination, allowing the plant to reseed even in frequently mowed lawns.” (UC

To maintain a healthy lawn in Oklahoma, it’s important to pre-emerge beginning mid-August through mid-September to help control the seeds from germinating. Our high temps help keep it from seeding, but as soon as we experience our cooler temps, the seeds will germinate again. Work diligently to remove solitary plants before seed production starts. Over seeding in the fall season with desirable grass types may help stop or at least choke out slow emerging weed seedlings.

While completely ridding your lawn of Poa annua may seem next to impossible, our tree and lawn experts at Marcum’s Nursery recommend Image.

Image is a ready-to-spray herbicide consumer concentrate product that not only kills Annual Bluegrass (Poa annua), but also helps eliminate common chickweed, henbit, *dandelion, dollarweed, wild onions and wild garlic. NOTE: Do NOT apply on Fescue grass.

For Best Results: Apply Image and allow the Image application to dry. After the application has dried, water it in to ensure the Image application is getting to the root. Don’t wait any longer than a week to water in your application.

Wait 48-hours before mowing your yard. You will see results in 2-3 weeks and should be completely dead within 3-5 weeks.

*For difficult weeds, you may have to apply another Image application, but you will know in 6 weeks if you need to do another treatment.

24 FL. OZ. container covers 6,000 sq. ft. 32 FL. OZ. container covers 8,000 sq. ft.

For more information on Image and Annual Bluegrass (Poa annua), contact Marcum’s Nursery.

Winterizing Your Plants

Plants suffer cold damage when they lose moisture from their leaves but can’t replace the moisture because the soil is dry or the water in the ground is frozen. Knowing and following a few basic principles will go a long way towards protecting your plants from winter damage and helping them leaf out again next spring. We recommend the following guidelines.

Mulch The best way to insulate the soil is with a 1 1/2″ – 2″ layer of Marcum’s private label cedar mulch. Snow on the ground (or on top of the mulch) will also provide some insulation–if you have snow on the ground, leave it right where it is!

Cover Plants Cover plants with a frost cloth, burlap, or plastic to protect plants an extra 2-6 degrees. Make sure the material does not touch the plant; otherwise, it will just transfer the cold. Remove coverings during the daytime once temps stay above freezing; this allows plants to absorb the warming sunlight.

Prune Conservatively Do not prune cold-sensitive plants until spring has arrived. If your plant is injured, leave the damaged burnt leaves on the plant to protect the foliage underneath. Premature trimming may damage tender new growth caused by a late cold snap. You may also end up cutting out more than is necessary, mistaking still-alive growth for dead. Prune only after new growth has started to appear.

Believe it or not, a light layer of snow is actually good for perennials. Heavy wet snows can weigh down and break branches–but try not to remove all the snow, as it is an excellent insulator against the frigid temperatures that may injure plants.

If you have any questions as to which plants to protect, ask one of our nursery professionals. We’ll do our best to help ensure your plants withstand the winters in Oklahoma.

Service Agreement For Marcum's Nursery

Marcum’s Nursery Service Agreement Effective July 2016 169 N. Main Avenue, Goldsby, OK 73093 (405-288-2368) 2121 S. W. 119th Street, OKC, OK 73170 (405-691-9100) We install trees/shrubs and materials with consideration to preventing damage to the existing lawn and landscape. In some cases, it is necessary to use machinery to lift or move plant material. We will not be responsible for damage that occurs when instructed by you to enter your property with the machinery. We will repair minimal damage as a courtesy to you. Prices quoted for planting trees/shrubs are based on reasonably accessed areas. Any additional labor required to plant the tree/shrub will result in an additional charge.

Safety for our crews is our number one concern. If Marcum’s Nursery has any concerns regarding digging, especially on bigger trees where machinery may be used, we will contact OKIE prior to excavating. All OKIE Line locate requests require 48 hours advance notice to mark lines.

Customer’s responsibilities include the following: The customer is responsible for providing reasonable access to the area where the tree/shrub will be placed and determining that cable, phone, irrigation lines, or any other utility lines not normally marked by OKIE are identified. Our service agreement does not cover any labor or repair work to existing underground lines that were damaged and NOT marked prior to our landscaping installation.

The customer will be responsible for communicating all possible planting/landscaping obstacles in the initial consult. This would include but not be limited to: locked gates, pets, tree stumps, air conditioning units, neighborhood access codes/locks and privacy fences/retaining walls. If Marcum’s Nursery crews are dispatched and then unable to complete the work due to such obstacles, customer will be responsible for all service charges.

Note for customers living outside city limits or in large land areas/acreages: You are responsible for calling OKIE (800-522-6543) prior to our excavating. All OKIE Line locate requests require 48 hours advance notice to mark lines.

Removing tree stumps and other obstacles interfering with the planting of the tree/shrub: OUR PRICE FOR PLANTING DOES NOT INCLUDE REMOVING STUMPS OR DEAD TREES. Our preference is to work with a professional tree/stump removal company; we can make recommendations based on our previous work experience if needed. Please inform us if we will be coordinating our installation schedule with a tree/stump removal company. Arrangements for Marcum’s Nursery to remove any stump or dead trees, will include additional tree/stump removal charges as follows:

$25.00 an hour per crew member on job site (usually a 3-man crew)

$25.00 minimum disposal fee

Our goal and purpose is to keep our customers happy. Our Service Agreement has always been in favor of our customer, and we will strive to continue our goal of customer satisfaction. If you have questions regarding our Service Agreement, please call us.

Plant Warranty For Marcum's Nursery

Marcum’s Nursery Plant Warranty Effective July 2016 169 N. Main Avenue, Goldsby, OK 73093 (405-288-2368) 2121 S.W. 119th Street, OKC, OK 73170 (405-691-9100)

Warranty on trees and shrubs planted by Marcum’s Nursery, is one year from the date the tree/shrub is planted. Warranties are not transferable. WE DO NOT REPLACE ANNUAL PLANTS OR ANYTHING PLANTED IN CONTAINERS. WE DO NOT WARRANTY THE FOLLOWING TREES: Spruce, Cherry, Plum, Italian Cypress, Palm, Vanderwolf Pine, Japanese Cedar, Weeping Alaskan Cedar, White Pine, Dogwood, Japanese Maple.

If there are questions or concerns on trees/shrubs planted by Marcum’s Nursery, please inform us when the concern arises. We will work to diagnose the problem and get it corrected. If it is determined that a replacement tree/shrub is necessary, we will schedule the replacement at a time that gives the replacement tree/shrub the best chance of survival. We will replace the tree/shrub with no additional charge for labor if the tree/shrub dies within the first four (4) months of planting. After the first four (4) months, the initial cost of labor will be assessed to replant the tree/shrub. If we feel the tree/shrub has a chance to survive and begin growing as a healthy tree/shrub, an extension can be made to the warranty at that time. If the tree/shrub is dormant when planted, we guarantee the tree/shrub to begin growing as a healthy tree/shrub in the spring.

Marcum’s Nursery recommends moving tree straps every three (3) months to keep the straps from girdling the tree. Remove tree stakes one year after planting of tree.


Our warranty does not cover trees/shrubs that fail to survive because of neglect, fire, wind, hail, flooding, freeze, chemicals or any natural disaster that occurs beyond our control. Neglect includes failure to water in periods of drought, over watering, insect infestation or disease. We do not warranty trees/shrubs if the planting site has been altered (For example: inserting PVC tubes into the ground for watering, or raising the level of the soil around the trunk of the tree).

Our warranty does not cover any labor or repair work to existing underground lines that were damaged and NOT marked prior to our landscaping installation. These underground lines include but are not limited to the following: sprinkler and sprinkler heads, cable, phone, irrigation lines, or any other utility lines.

Please Note: All balances are due on the date of installation. The warranty may be revoked at the discretion of Marcum’s Nursery if there is a remaining balance after date of installation.

Our goal and purpose is to keep our customers happy. Our warranty has always been in favor of our customer, and we will strive to continue our goal of customer satisfaction. If you have questions regarding your Plant Warranty or the care of your tree/shrub, please call.

Lawn Weeds & Weed Control - Picture Guide
Garden tips and conversion tables

Hard Goods Coverage (approximate equivalents)

Common Conversions 1 cubic yard = 27 cubic feet 9 bags (3 cubic ft.) = 1 cubic yard 1 ton = 2000 lbs. Mulch:

1 cubic yard covers 105 sqft. @ 3″ deep 1 cubic yard covers 160 sqft. @ 2″ deep 1 cubic yard covers 325 sqft. @ 1″ deep 1 bag (3 cubic ft.) covers 12 sqft. @ 3″ deep 1 bag (3 cubic ft.) covers 18 sqft. @ 2″ deep 1 bag (3 cubic ft.) covers 24 sqft. @ 1″ deep Compost Cotton Burr = 2 cubic ft. per bag Topsoil:

1 cubic yard covers 105 sqft. @ 3″ deep 1 cubic yard covers 160 sqft. @ 2″ deep 1 cubic yard covers 325 sqft. @ 1″ deep Peat Moss:

3.8 cu.ft. per bale 1 bale covers 50 sqft. @ 1″ deep. Mix in. 1 bale covers 100 sqft. @ 1/2″ deep. Mix in. River Rock:

1 cubic yard weighs about 2800 lbs. = 1.4 tons 1 cubic yard covers approx. 115 sqft. Amending Clay Soil Spread 4 bags of Back To Nature for every 100 sqft. Mix in.

New Landscape Beds Mix 2 bags Back To Nature for every 1 cu.yd. of topsoil. Add 1 Bag of Gypsum every 1000 sqft.

Spring Flowering Bulbs: Planting Guidelines

Planting Spring Flowering Bulbs Fall is in full swing and whether you are new to Oklahoma gardening or have a number of years of gardening experience, you may want to consider planting spring flowering bulbs for their toughness, convenience, and vivid hues.

Picking healthy bulbs…

Bulbs are also known as rhizomes, tubers, or corms. Kelly Marcum suggests that you purchase your spring flowering bulbs now and refrigerate them if at all possible to keep them dormant. Mid-December is the ideal time to plant when the ground temps are cooler. If you have no source of refrigeration, keep bulbs in a dry, cool spot, not exposed to direct sunshine.

Choose the biggest and most compact bulbs, as they bring forth larger blooms. Squishy bulbs are generally not in good condition and tend to bloom feebly or will not produce any blooms at all. Make sure bulbs do not have cracks, as this may signify an unhealthy plant. Never choose bulbs that are already growing roots; they may not blossom satisfactorily once planted in the soil.

Some bulb gardening enthusiasts, fancy the unaffected, natural appearance and will in fact, put in a couple or more bulbs into a single hole, trying to create a ‘clumped’ look. If you prefer a structured appearance, our bulb planters work great. This cylindrical shaped tool helps extract small tufts of earth in a systematic and consistent manner making it easier to plant your bulbs in precise rows. For mass bulb plantings, drill bits may also be purchased at Marcum’s making the planting process easier and faster.

Soil Prep

Soil prep is the most important thing you can do when it comes to successful bulb planting. If you have clay soil, loosen or rototill soil to a one foot depth mixing in a good rich top soil ,or add one bag of our Redbud Compost every 10 square feet. Prep hollowed out bulb holes with Hi-Yield Bone Meal to increase the size of the blooms as well as establish the bulb’s roots earlier and faster. Bulb holes should be slightly bigger in circumference than the bulb, and dug twice as deep as the bulb is tall.

Place the bulb with the pointed end up and the flat side of the bulb against the soil. Pack the holes with remaining soil, tapping it downward firmly keeping out air pockets. Water in gently.

Sit back and wait for the canvas of color in early spring. Marcum’s Nursery carries many spring season bulbs varieties for all your landscaping needs. Add your imagination and “just add the sun!”

Planting Guidelines For New Trees

Unloading your new tree:

  • DO NOT let the tree drop or fall from your truck or trailer. Handle with Care!
  • Try not to handle the tree by its trunk.
  • DO NOT remove the burlap or wire basket from your tree. Remove the rope after your tree has been staked and watered.

Soil Amendments:

  • If your soil is HARD and full of clumps – You should replace it with a good topsoil. A hard clumpy soil will not settle around the root structure properly, making it difficult for your tree to take root.
  • For CLAY soil, mix topsoil with Redbud Compost, such as Back To Nature or Humore. Both products are available at Marcum’s Nursery.
  • For SANDY soil, mix topsoil with peat moss and Redbud Compost.

Planting your new tree:

  • Dig a hole up to 3″ – 6″ wider than the root ball and deep enough so the top of the root ball will be 1″ above ground level when finished. It is very important that you do not plant your tree where the top of the root ball is below ground level. This could result in growth problems and possibly cause your tree to die.
  • Begin to backfill around the root ball with your soil mixture. When the hole is about 1/2 full, begin to water and use a shovel to work the soil / water mixture downward to remove any air pockets that may be present. Continue adding soil until you have filled the hole to ground level.
  • Untie the rope from around the tree trunk, remove the burlap from the top of the root ball only. Leave wire basket on to help hold roots together. Remove any remainder wire that is visible and above ground.

After the tree is in the ground:

  • Water your tree thoroughly and again use your shovel to settle the soil around the root ball. If the soil settles, continue adding more topsoil until it remains at ground level.
  • Use any excess soil to build a soil ring around the outside of the root ball. Fill the water ring with a mixture containing Marcum’s Root Stimulator and let this soak in well.
  • Cover the top of the soil with a 1″ – 2″ layer of prepared mulch. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk of the tree. This will help to retain moisture and reduce weeds inside the ring.
  • Tip: Do not let grass grow inside the water ring as grass will use a lot of the moisture that you want your tree to get.
  • Stake your new tree for at least one year to help keep it in place. Use nylon tree straps as opposed to garden hose. Move the straps on the trunk of the tree every three months to keep from girdling the tree.
Pruning Guidelines

The majority of trees and shrubs can safely be pruned during their dormant period between late fall and early spring. Pruning after new growth emerges cuts off the new growth hormones, which can limit the growth and bloom potential for the entire year. Also, pruning in mid to late summer can seriously damage many plants due to the added stress that the summer heat exerts on a plant.

Popular shrubs to prune after flowering (typically late May/June)

  • Forsythia, Pieris, Bigleaf Hydrangea, Quince, Oakleaf Hydrangea
  • Spring flowering Spirea, Lilacs, spring flowering Viburnum, Mock orange, Weigela

Evergreens Most evergreens prefer being pruned in early spring before new growth. If pruned in the fall, they must be pruned in time for the new growth to harden off before winter. Pruning while it’s still hot can also severely stress the plant.

  • Arborvitae – Light shearing in early spring is acceptable. Touch up again in early summer.
  • Broadleaf Evergreen (hollies, inkberries, etc.) – Selectively prune to keep shape. Best if not sheared.
  • Boxwood – Keep small for the first few years to increase branch density. Selective pruning is best. If you must shear, it is best to shear in spring and early summer.
  • Juniper – Selective pruning is best. Light shearing is acceptable. It is unlikely that new growth will emerge on interior wood.
  • Pine – Prune by removing 2/3 of new spring candle growth. New growth will not emerge on interior wood.
  • Spruce – Do not shear. Selective pruning only in early spring before new growth.
  • Yew – Light to moderate shearing in early spring is acceptable. Touch up again in early summer. New growth can emerge on old wood, but complete rejuvenation of mature shrub is not recommended.


  • Remove all spent vegetation in late fall.


  • Shear back to a few inches when dormant. Can either be sheared in late fall or early spring. For added landscape interest, keep the dormant foliage through the winter. Must shear before spring growth emerges to prevent squared off tips through the year.
Watering Guidelines

Watering Your New Trees And Shrubs:

  • There are no exact rules for watering plants. Water newly planted trees at the time of planting, and then adjust all watering according to the plant’s needs. Since different plants have different moisture requirements, soil and plant conditions should be used as the primary rule.
  • Most trees and shrubs in Oklahoma reach maximum growth when they receive the equivalent of at least one inch of water from rainfall or irrigation per week during the growing season. Newly planted trees and shrubs will need to be watched for watering as needed on a daily basis.

Watering Guidelines

  • Do not water until plants show signs of light wilting. Apply water slowly to allow it to soak into the soil.
  • Wet the soil to a depth of 12 inches. This encourages a uniform root system which is better able to withstand disease.
  • Do not over water, since over watering can leach nutrients from the soil or deplete oxygen availability to the roots.
  • Do not plant high moisture sensitive plants next to gutter downspouts or other areas where excessively wet soils may develop.
  • Give special attention to plants set close to a wall where an overhanging roof may block rainfall.
  • Check the soil level near the root zone and not just at the surface before deciding whether or not to irrigate. Quick summer showers may not supply enough moisture to wet the entire area around the root ball. To determine if you need to water, pull back the mulch and dig down 4″-6″ beside the root ball and check the moisture level there.
  • Lastly, mulch plants whenever possible to reduce supplemental irrigation. Even if a plant is supposed to be “drought tolerant”, it still needs to be mulched and irrigated at least throughout the first growing season after it has been transplanted.
  • You can also add a TreeGator watering bag to your tree to aid in watering during the hot and dry summer months.

Winter Irrigation

Plants benefit from winter irrigation when temperatures rise above freezing. For typical Oklahoma winters, this could be a significant portion of the season. This is particularly true for broad-leaf evergreens and many deciduous species. When plants are properly mulched the need for winter irrigation is greatly reduced.

Under Watered Plants

If a plant starts to die from the top-down/outside-in with dry crunchy leaves, it’s not getting enough water. These plants usually look good at the bottom where the water supply only makes it up the tree so far. This is easier to fix if caught in the early stages than over watering.

Think You’ve Under Watered? We suggest the following guidelines:

  • Add ferti-lome fish emulsion around the base of the tree
  • Water in with a slow drip
  • Treegators are recommended

Note: The increase in water encourages new energy to push out new growth. This observation works with most all plants although some such as the Sky Pencil Hollies aren’t as forgiving about running out of water and it’s harder for them to bounce back.

Over Watered Plants

The signs for over watering are usually leaves turning yellow with moisture still in them from the lower portion of the plant, starting from the inside out. The tops are the last thing to look bad because they are getting plenty of water to the top of the tree. Planting a tree too deep will also have the same characteristics. Over watering is a lot harder to fix than under watering!

Think You’ve Over watered? We suggest the following guidelines:

  • Pull mulch away from base of tree/shrub to allow drying
  • Next time you add water, add fish emulsion
  • Water in with slow drip